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| The Independent Traveler's Newsletter PAGE FOUR |
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| The Independent Traveler's Newsletter PAGE FOUR |
| A Postcard from the Creuse continued . . . |
| "Very
nice," you say. But what if we get sick of nature and want
to have a bit of culture? This is where Monet comes in.
Not only Monet but a host of other more or less known artistic bods.
The Creuse has a strong link with Impressionism even to the extent of having
its own style known as the Crozant School created by Armand Guillaumin.
Crozant is a town and a sixth century castle in the north of the département,
and it's not far from there, at Fresselines, that Monet painted his first
series in 1889. Contemporary art is also well represented with
the National Centre for Art and the Landscape on Lake Vassivière.
Galleries are plentiful, and if you want to have a go at creating
your own ‘school’, there are courses and artistic gîtes
(rural
holiday cottages) to get you on your way.
Other lesser known artistic endeavors practiced in the area are stone and wood sculpting, pottery and tile making, and glass blowing, just to name a few. Of course, we shouldn't forget the historical culture that is evident around almost every corner. Castles, manor houses, churches, abbeys, sculpted doorways and windows, roadside crucifixes and monoliths are some of the things that indicate the passage of history dating from the Neolithic. If,
after all this sporting and cultural activity, what would be better
than to please the palate? It's nature itself that makes the
food here taste so good. Local fairs and markets abound where
you can try some of the delicious local specialties: pâté
de pommes de terre (potato and sour cream pie), boudin aux châtaignes
(chestnut black pudding) and le Creusois (hazlenut cake). Many
of the restaurants use local produce to create dishes worthy of the best
eating places in Paris. Even the humble bars offer a ‘workers’
menu’ -- terrific value for the money and that, coupled
with the bottle of wine that goes with it, could cut short any ideas
for doing anything in the afternoon!
See what I mean? The Creuse has something for everyone. And, it's easy to get to from Channel ports or Paris. Accommodations are simple to find from campsites, gîtes, B&Bs, and farm inns to hotels everywhere. So, for your next holiday why not try this ‘secret’ that won't break the bank! I did, and nine years later I'm still here. Contact
the Creuse Tourist Board or Wanda Glowinska-Rizzi,
[Photos copyrighted property of the Creuse Tourist Board and Wanda Glowinska-Rizzi.] MORE
ON THE CREUSE IN OUR NEXT ISSUE: See the Pantheon, the story
of Creuse stonemasons and their contribution to the monuments of France.
SPONSORING THIS ISSUE:
Maison
des Remparts is a warm and inviting chambres d'hôtes in a romantic
FEATURING THE CREUSE: THE RIVER & ITS VALLEY As you know, if you have long been a subscriber to this newsletter, FRANCE On Your Own has always encouraged travelers to discover France, from the cities to the depths of the rural coutryside, on their own. We try not to provide a precise driving route, although knowing a scenic roadway on occasion is helpful, because the route you choose may turn out to be a far better choice. But, we still want to bring regions to you that may otherwise go unnoticed -- regions such as the Creuse in central France which offer you another kind of vacation -- perhaps not filled with activity and famous monuments, but offering, instead, the pastoral beauty that is at the heart of the real France. The département of the Creuse is named for the picturesque river that begins high on its Millevaches Plateau in the granite foothills of the Massif Central. The Creuse flows northwesterly receiving the Gartempe and Claise rivers along the way and eventually merges with the Vienne just after passing the town of Descartes. It's name means 'deep river' and aptly so, for there are deep and wild gorges along its course -- a course we will explore here to tempt travelers to spend some of their vacation days following its exceptional path.
La Roche-Posay has a charming main street, a continuation of the scenic D5. A surprise is what you will find in this small village - a casino, a thermal spa, a racecourse and more! The casino, one of a chain owned and managed by Groupe Partouche, is located on avenue Georges Deloffre and is quite grand as you can see by the photo. It opened in the year 2000 and draws many visitors from the surrounding region. Perhaps a more well-known offering of La Roche-Posay is its world-famous thermal spa and mineral waters which have been enjoyed for over five centuries. The Centre de Balnéothérapie Thermale Mélusine, Parc Thermal, 86270 La Roche-Posay is open from February through October. These thermal waters have spawned a skin-care products industry world wide, all using 'La Roche-Posay' in their name, and offering cosmetics, sun protection, skin and scar treatment products, and applications for sensitive skin. Then there is the Hippodrome de La Gâtinière for those who enjoy horse racing. Beginning at 2 PM, races are scheduled for certain days in June, July, August and early September. Admission is EUR 6 for adults over 18 and is free for those younger than 18.
Our time in La Roche-Posay this past autumn included a marvelous lunch at the restaurant of Hôtel de L'Esplanade, 37, cours Pasteur across from the place, where we thoroughly enjoyed an entrée of julienned céleriac, leeks and rice, followed by our main course of fillet of doré with spinach, accompanied by a half bottle of Côtes de Bourg (we drink red wine with our meals, even when a white is probably called for) and ending with selections of cheese and fromage blanc. The incredible cost? EUR 26.50 for two including the wine! The service was prompt and courteous, and it was a very enjoyable meal at a very pleasant price. The hotel is open March to November and their phone is 33.5.49.86.20.48 and their Fax is 33.5.449.86.64.64. For those who would like to rent a small château in this region, please visit Château d'Alogny [see drawing below]. Located only 11 kilometers north of La Roche-Posay on the D5, this cozy and charming small château sits high on a hill overlooking the picturesque countryside. Views in all directions will astonish you. A week or two here will allow a proper introduction to this very French and very pleasant part of France. Contact the owner, Dr John Cooke, at arachne1@aol.com for rental information.
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Another
type
of art that is equally well known is that of tapestry making. Where
else to see it at its finest than at Aubusson? Positioned in the
southeast corner of the département, Aubusson and the lesser
known town of Felletin, became one of the most important European centers
of tapestry weaving in the Middle Ages when the pure water of the River
Creuse was discovered by some Flemish weavers. Tapestries and
carpets are still made there, and it's possible to see them being
designed, made or restored. Because of the many galleries and
workshops that exist, you could also buy your very own Aubusson tapestry.
However, if I could afford one, there's no way that I would let anyone
walk on it!
We'll
begin
just south of Descartes near in the charming medieval village of La
Roche-Posay along the D5 on the left bank of the River Creuse, just
after it had merged with the Gartempe. This is the département
of the Vienne, part of a region that is well-deserving of a visit and probably
not high on the list of most tourists -- not because it doesn't have a
lot to offer but because it is rural, peaceful and not very well known.
Consider how much more enjoyable a destination is if the crowds haven't
discovered it!
Let's
not
forget the most beautiful part of the village: Jardins du Parc
Thermal de La Roche-Posay. These gardens are made up of different
focal points covering two hectares which include an English garden at the
Pavillon Rose, the Thermal Spring, the Checkers and Chess Plaza, the heath
terrace, and a lavender field among other attractions. Nearby is
an 18-hole golf course and, of course, the rivers. Yes, this little
village is full of surprises!
