Eze  is a pleasant little perched village 429 meters above sea level with incredible and awesome views of the Mediterranean and the coastline far below.  Visitors enter the village through 14th century gates to find themselves on winding, narrow streets filled with ancient stone residences, climbing greenery, iron gates, courtyards and a simply enchanting atmosphere.    One of the best views is from Le Jardin Exotique (see the photo here and on the cover of this issue), the creation in 1949 of agronomist Jean Gastaud.   Cactus plants from South America dominate this fascinating garden surrounding the ruined château.   And, there is no more breathtaking view anywhere!

In the hills behind Nice is the 16th century village and artist colony of Saint-Paul de Vence.  Inside its  medieval walls it is home to dozens of artist studios and galleries, and a 12th century church, Eglise Collégiale, housing a painting of Ste-Catherine believed to be a Tintoretto.  Its most famous restaurant, La Colombe D’Or , has existed since the 1920s, and in the 1930s it was frequented by Chagall, Picasso, Léger, Braque, Miró and Matisse.  Today, it offers 16 rooms and ten apartments to guests who will find themselves surrounded by the art work of its famous past patrons.  We can honestly say that Saint-Paul provided us with more photo opportunities than any single town we have ever visited in France.  It is a place, despite the throngs of tourists, that should not be missed!

TWO LANES IN ST PAUL DE VENCE

A visit to Provence, as you can see by our visit to the Var, Vaucluse and Bouches-du-Rhône in our March issue and these three incredible départements, will offer you remarkable variety of terrain, architecture and climate.  From the meandering Mediterranean coast to the mountain foothills behind quaint and charming villages, this is a region of France that extends its warmth to visitors through its lively activities, robust cuisine and friendly people.  We know you will enjoy your first or next visit to Provence.

Where to stay . . .

Rent an apartment in or the entire historic Château de Méouilles (04170 Saint André les Alpes ) in the Alpes de Haute Provence by the week.  Bertrand and Maguerite MASSON are the owners and can be reached by phone or fax at 971 6 522 4832  (Dubai).  Or you can send them an email to contact@chateaudemeouilles.com.  It would probably be best to click on the property name above and visit the web site which provides many photos and a clear description of all this property offers including prices.  You will see that the rooms are luxurious, the landscape incredible and the climate ideal.

BARCELONNETTE~  Province's Little Corner of Mexico
                                                                                                                                    by Barbara Beaumont 

Since I'd come to France from Southern California and had spent a fair amount of time in Mexico, I was amazed one day in my travels to discover a tiny corner of Mexico tucked into a valley in the Alpes de Haute Provence.  The name of this picturesque town is Barcelonnette, and its history is quite interesting.

It seems that things weren't going well for the people in this valley of the Ubaye at the beginning of the 19th century. Winters were hard, crops weren't good and businesses were failing. Three brothers named Arnaud were among the first to leave when, in 1803, their silk business was in trouble. That year they departed for Louisiana, where there is now a town named Arnaudville. 

In 1821 they moved on to Mexico in search of fortune, opening a textile and hat-making factory called Seven Doors. They did so well that many other young men of the valley, hearing of their success, went to work with them or to open their own businesses. By 1845 some of them came back to France with pockets full of money, and Mexico became the dream of most everyone. 

Beginning in 1880 some of the original settlers returned to Barcelonnette to stay, building large mansions which are still called 'Les Mexicaines' even though the architects came from France, Italy and England. Styles range from neo-classic to Art Déco; these houses are still standing and some are even still in the same family that built them. All this money helped to build the parish church, the town hall and a new wing on the hospital.  And,  if you visit the imposing local cemetery you may see as many Spanish names as French ones ~ as well as some very impressive tombs.

The little town itself is not far from Gap, toward the Italian border. The ski resort of Pra-Loup looms over Barcelonnette from its 1800-meter altitude, and the river Ubaye runs alongside.  It's a great place to visit on foot, and though it has a history that goes back to the Middle Ages, it's the Mexican flavor that makes it so much fun. In addition,  you'll find authentic tacos and enchiladas that you can wash down with a cold Corona beer.  Not exactly what you'd expect ~ but delightful in its own right.
 

Barbara Beaumont operates Jaunts in Provence, a full-service planning company that will 
arrange all the details of your visit to Provence.  Their Cézanne à la Carte program includes
such services as reserving tickets for the Cézanne exhibition this summer in Aix, finding a suitable hotel or B&B, 
providing airport/TGV pickup, and organizing other activities for a relaxing and enjoyable stay in Provence. 
You can contact Cézanne à la Carte and Barbara by email at bbeguilles@wanadoo.fr for more information. 

A Luxurious Riverfront Rental in Burgundy

             'Angle-Terre', on the River Yonne, offers luxury & a spectacular location

We believe we may be the very first to introduce you to this wonderful house in Burgundy's Yonne département.  Many of you have heard of or read about film star Leslie Caron's incredible auberge with four lovely guest rooms and excellent restaurant, La Lucarne aux Chouettes, in the charming village of Villeneuve-sur-Yonne.  In fact, you may have even read about it in a past issue of FRANCE On Your Own!   If you've had the pleasure of a night or two there or dinner in the restaurant, you will know what a marvelous find La Lucarne is!  We were fortunate to spend two nights there several years ago, and a photo of the Yonne in front of the auberge appears on our Carte Postale page.  And, come September, we will once again enjoy dinner in the cozy restaurant with a view of the river and its graceful 13th century bridge.

La Lucarne aux Chouettes, which is 'The Owls Nest', was created by Miss Caron from four 17th century buildings, and has had great success, thanks to the personal touches of Miss Caron herself.  Well, fortunately for those who love self-catering holidays in France, she also owns 'Angle-Terre' just up the riverfront lane, Quai Bretoche. The renovation and modernization were just completed ~ the finishing touches were literally accomplished in recent weeks ~ and the house is now ready to receive its first guests.

This fine house offers comfort and warmth to all those who stay here.  The furnishings are well chosen (by Miss Caron herself) and classic in design, fine fabrics have been selected for each room, and every detail has been attended to in order that guests feel absolutely at home.  Vacationers can rent it weekly or monthly for 950 euros per week.  There are three bedrooms with canopy beds and a bathroom on the first floor; on the ground floor is a living room/dining room with a fireplace, spacious modern kitchen, and radiant heating under handmade floor tiles.  All the windows on the river side are down to the floor so that none of the views will be missed!   In addition to having every modern convenience and stunning décor, 'The view is utmost!', to quote Miss Caron.

For those of you who have rented cottages for self-catering holidays, you will have to admit after seeing these photos that none are as luxurious, spacious or as well located as Angle-Terre.  Visitors all come away from Villeneuve with fond memories of the calm and beautiful River Yonne and the wonderful, historic village itself.

We hope you enjoy these photos.  Should you have questions or wish to inquire about availability, please send an email to us at info@franceonyourown.com. 

• More tantalizing lodging and restaurant reviews by our inveterate traveler, 'KB'
• Part Three of France Wine Travel takes us to Provence
• Look for additional Petite Pleasures from Maxine Rose Schur
• Our regional feature takes you on another in-depth visit ~ somewhere in France!
• * Our new feature: Letters from Occupied France * 

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